
The potentially challenging part of our passage, the North Sea crossing started well. At first there was the sailing along the Scottish coast from Inverness from early Monday evening through the night. So back to our 4 hour shift routine, but this time there would be no land in sight for days. The nights are quite pleasant actually. You start to lose the sense of time. Shifts follow one another and you plot your position on the chart, make wind strength and direction and other possible observations if there's anything to see, take turns at the wheel, change sails or just trim them. You fiddle with the radar and GPS plotter and of course log all of this in the logbook. Two men sleep heavily, sometimes snoring, as you work away in the eerie glow of the instruments. On deck, not many words are necessarily exchanged, but sometimes thoughts are shared and conversations had as well.
On Tuesday morning we finally started losing sight of land. The promised favourable wind was carrying us along nicely and we were looking forward to this experience.
Time flies when you’re having fun. The dreaded North Sea, knowing what it can be like was very kind to us for a day. Then we started losing wind, which was totally contrary to all the horror stories of this area but naturally happens here too. So, the crossing was going to be sailing, motoring and motor sailing, depending on the wind conditions.
The first oil field wasn't too far off the coast, in fact the shore was probably just about still in sight when we spotted the structure. Imagine what we build in search of the black sludge that is now destroying marine life on the coasts of Florida. I would ban oil drilling tomorrow, but I guess it would mean giving up some nice cars, and it is kind of reassuring to have the diesel engine onboard this vessel too.
The VHF radio fell silent and Dynamo was concerned that it had failed us. I suggested that it was the fact that simply wasn't anybody within tens of miles using it. We had had our electrical gremlins before, though, so I was looking for an Albatross flying overhead but saw just Kittywakes.
Kittywakes follow trawlers, so on Thursday we saw some fishing vessels. Thursday morning the wind wasn't again giving us the set minimum speed of 5 knots, so we had to motorsail to get the desired speed. Gradually the wind started to pick up. For a spell we had the spinnaker up but started sensing stronger winds were coming. We changed first to no 1 genoa and then a good call, said Fuss, to a smaller no 3.. We also reefed the main and surely enough soon there was 15to 20 kts wind speed and the swell was growing. It would have been a lot harder work to change the sails any later. Not so much for the wind but the big waves. But this was more like the North Sea - fun and sport, the stuff that the stories are made of, something to brag about. The wind grew stronger and by the night we had taken the main down to reef no 2 and still had the no 3 jib. The night was fairly hard work as we and the boat were slightly tested. Chief Engineer and Dynamo's shift got the most of the winds gusting over 30 knots and they were clearly wet and tired coming off - a couple of big waves had broken over the cockpit with a big splash but hadn't broken their spirits!
Not a soul in sight for a day and a half, other than oil fields that we passed during the day and night time, when they looked like xmas decorations in the horizon. We didn't pass any closer than about 7nm. And then, not even the oil fields. The rumour about mobile phones working in the proximity of the oil rigs was proved wrong, other than on one occasion near a Norwegian rig the mobile phone rang all of a sudden and I got to reply to a question of removing a satellite aerial on top of our office building, as it was in the way of some work. A phone call from another world - a strange feeling.
Having lost the sight of land on Tuesday morning we knew, plotting on, that by Friday night we'd have Denmark in our sights. Increasing number of big ships and cumulus clouds in the horizon were the first visual give-aways. The wind died down again and the engine neutral button got stuck. Chief Eng pushed the gear in place from inside the hull so we could motor on but as the weather was sunny and calm I called a halt to see if we could repair it properly - after all we would soon need both the gears and neutral, if we were going to moor in in a strange harbour - the fuel had run low and the men needed a good night's sleep so the decision was made to overnight in Hirtshals on the Danish west coast near the tip of Jutland.
Moored in in the darkness and got a nice welcome from the Harbour Office by VHF. Onto Sydkajen and soon we were asleep. No wake up call, just got up when we felt like it, around 9 o'clock. Then Fuss's excellent fry, some provisions and a 100 litres of diesel. The harbour master, Jens, brought it by car in cans as they had no pump for visiting boats. There were some friendly Norwegians moored in in a new Bavaria 44 and maybe about 10 other boats but that was all there was room for. Jens said the place was getting more popular as a stop-over and new berths for visitors would be in the cards for the autumn.
We got a nice new set of cutlery from Hirtshals, as Fuss, doing the dishes asked me to empty the used water overboard, without telling me the cutlery was in the bottom of the bucket. Well, I have to give it to him, he did not ask me to throw the cutlery out, just the water. Harr, harr, so no keel-hauling for him just yet...
The good weather continues. We left Hirtshals today, well rested, showered etc. at around 14.30 to head downwind towards Skagen, the northernmost point of Denmark (obviously not taking Greenland into account), which we just passed, turning on a great reach, steady 7.5 knots, towards Helsingoer, where we should pick up Lawyer and Consultant sometime tomorrow evening. Looking forward to getting them on and figuring out where we'll put them with all the sails and other stuff now occupying the fore cabin...Well, if we continue to work shifts, that is the answer, I guess.
So, thanks to this great crew, the North Sea crossed, into the Kattegat now and onto the Baltic. A bearded greeting for all our readers.
Ahab